As we taper off for the festive season I thought it timely to look back at the many fine wines reviewed here during 2000 and to select the year's best. One thing that became immediately apparent as I flicked through the pages looking for gold medal and trophy winners was that quality wines are becoming more and more expensive. The wine bargain hunters' days are clearly numbered.

Wine of the year is the Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1998. I described this one as a stunning wine, with intense blackcurrant and dusty oak bouquet, a beg borrow or steal wine, so purple that you could use it in your fountain pen.

To choose the best white I had to toss up between three wines: the '98 Narkoojee Gippsland Chardonnay, with its lashings of perfumed stone fruit. The '84 Seppelt Eden Valley Riesling, which I thought could have passed for a wine only two or three years old. And a newcomer, the 2000 Dominion Wines Alexander Park Riesling from the Strathbogie Ranges, with its attractive and upfront lime marmalade bouquet. I gave the prize to this last one as it was the most affordable at $16.

My other top wines included the quite delicious Cloudy Bay Pelorus Non Vintage; the '98 Curlewis Pinot Noir from Geelong, which I called a pinot for red wine drinkers. The luscious and voluptuous '99 Booth's Taminick Premium Shiraz, of which I bought two dozen. And, lastly, the top shelf ($80.00) '97 Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz, a lovely wine of peppery lifted varietal character and elegant French oak. To my palate the RWT was preferable to the '95 Penfolds Grange.

Wine Australia 2000

The Wine Australia 2000 exhibition, held at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre in late November, was by all accounts a great success. The official figures tell the story: over 33,000 visitors sipped and spat more than 100,000 bottles of wine provided by some 470 exhibitors from 43 Australian regions.

In fact, the number of wines on tasting was overwhelming. Wise tasters concentrated on single regions or single styles or varietals - others, like a few half cut deadbeats I saw at the end of one evening, seemed to have tried everything. If you missed out on this one you'll have to wait until September 2002 for the next. It'll be worth the trip to Sydney.

Tastings

Chanoine Grande Champagne NV

Reims, France. Pinot noir 70 per cent, pinot meunier 15 per cent, chardonnay 15 per cent. Very pale with the faintest blush of pink. Restrained small bead. A nose of biscuits and dried fruits with a floral undertone. Generous and medium-dry style in the mouth, creamy texture with pronounced pinot noir fruit, a hint of pears, and a citric tang at the finish. Best priced champagne I've seen recently. Available at Vintage Cellars, Quaffers and Liquorland stores. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2005. Price: $AUD30. Web: www.champagnechanoine.com.

Deakin Select Chardonnay 1999

Red Cliffs, Victoria. Straw yellow. Highly aromatic nose of well-ripened fruit and toasted oak. Abundant sweet fruit in the mouth with flavours of peach, butterscotch and oak vanillin. A hearty full-on style for the wooded chardonnay set. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2004. Price: RRP $AUD13. Web: www.deakinestate.com.au.

Hickinbotham Pinot Noir 1998

Dromana, Victoria. Mid-ruby. Lifted fragrant nose reminiscent of strawberries. Light and elegant on the palate showing pleasing varietal fruit and nicely balanced acidity. Adaptable as a starter or with light main courses. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2006. Price: $AUD28. E-mail: www.hickinbothamwinemakers.com.au.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 1 Durif 1998

Riverina, New South Wales. Mid to deep crimson. Sweet-fruited and oaky nose. Full-bodied, showing loads of ripeness and plum-like character. Tannic astringency and forward acidity show cellar potential. Surprisingly good wine for its modest price. Excellent for the barbecue lunch. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2006. Price: $AUD9. Value for money: 5/5. Web: www.debortoli.com.au.