ustralian wine drinkers have provincial palates - no question about it. We love our well-priced, primary fruit laden styles - and why shouldn't we? But loyalty doesn't explain why we seem to be so reluctant to experiment with imported wines. Variety, undoubtedly, is the spice of wine, so if we are to fully appreciate the diversity of the world's wines we really should get out more.
Where to start? My choice is Italy, one of the most ancient of wine countries, with a history of cultivating wine grapes since 800 BC. Its wines are plentiful and many are imported here, prices ranging from $4.00 a litre for jug wines to $100.00 plus for the super-expensive Supertuscans.
Modernisation of the Italian wine industry over the last thirty to forty years has been largely driven by the need to satisfy the requirements of major export markets and to meet standards set by the European Union.
Perhaps the most recognised Italian wine is chianti, a red wine from Tuscany, the region bounded by Florence in the north and Siena in the south. Newcomers to chianti reds usually agree on one characteristic: the wines typically display a notably firm finish, almost to the point of bitterness.
Chianti is made, principally, from the sangiovese (literally "blood of Jove") grape, the most widely planted red wine grape in Italy. Until recently the other grapes in the chianti recipe, as dictated by Italy's confusing "DOC" regulations, were the red canaiolo nero, and the two whites, trebbiano toscano and malvasia del chianti.
Rules and regulations change and nowadays chianti appellations may contain from 85 to 100 per cent sangiovese, which in turn can be blended with non-traditional varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz. The styles of chianti range through four levels of appellation: the humble vino da tavola (table wine), IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), and the highest level, DOCG (the G for Garantita, indicates a guarantee of appellation). Most chianti is now sold in standard claret style bottles although the old-fashioned raffia covered flasks can still be found - the ones people of another era used to transform into twee table lamps.
Some of the greatest wines of Tuscany are the "Supertuscans". These are "new world" style wines made from straight cabernet sauvignon, or from blends of sangiovese and noble French varieties aged in small French barriques rather than traditional large oak barrels. Supertuscan brands to look for - if you have a healthy bank balance - include Ornellaia, Tignanello, Solaia and Sassicaia.
A final word, Italians don't glorify wine as we new world wine lovers tend to. They see wine as a necessary adjunct to dining, wine is treated as a staple, another item of everyday food on the table. Accordingly, it has been my experience that Italian wines are generally not to be analysed and pondered over, rather they are best enjoyed as an accompaniment to food.
Tastings
Ribaldaccio Chianti 1998
Medium crimson. Imported by King and Godfree. Bouquet anticipates a dry and savoury palate. The medium-weighted palate presents an astringent tannic grip, this leads to fruit which has developed into likeable secondary wine flavours. The very dry and firm finish is clearly designed to accompany rich food. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2005. Price: good value at $AUD10.00.
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1998
Chianti Classico is a region in central Tuscany - a black cockerel on the neck label identifies wines of this appellation. Crimson with a purplish edge. Warm ripe fruit on the nose shows oaky undertones. A substantial dry red exhibiting generous flavours of leather, multi-layered plum-like fruit, dusty oak and lingering astringency. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2008. Price: about $AUD30.00.
© Martin Fields