The neighbouring regions of St Emilion and Bordeaux are a wine lover’s paradise. Vineyards and wineries are everywhere and there are innumerable lovely reds and whites to sip, to drink, to wallow in. There are guided tours available from the St Emilion and Bordeaux tourist bureaux or, armed with a map, the adventurous wine tourist can simply drive around and check out likely looking chateaux. But check out the tourist brochures first - many places are open to the public ‘by appointment only.’
St Emilion
Among the highlights in St Emilion were visits to Chateau de Lescours, a 14th century moated chateau built by one of Edward the First’s knights. We dropped in unannounced and were welcomed by chateau owners, the Chariol family. Pierre Chariol, vigneron of Chateau de Lescours was sitting in the winery enjoying a glass or two with winery staff after a hard day attending to post-fermentation duties.
Then there was Chateau Trotte Vieille, which sits on the plateau of St Emilion, overlooking the Dordogne valley. This famous appellation produces wines that typically cellar well for 15 years and more. The 2004 we tried was mid-red, dry and full with slight aniseed, blackcurrants and lashings of fine tannins. Appellation: Premier Grand Cru Classé. Grapes: merlot 50%, cabernet franc 40%, cabernet sauvignon 5%.
Also in St Etienne de Lisse is Chateau Bernateau, the property owned by the Lavau family for more than two centuries. I liked their 2002 wine of 80% merlot rounded out with cabernet franc. It is a clear ruby with a fresh warm and aromatic nose, the palate mid-weighted with spicy fruit and fine, grippy tannins. Appellation: St Emilion Grand Cru.
From 53 different plots of vines François’ staff sort the grapes by hand and put them through up to 27 different vinifications to achieve his final wine. I enjoyed his 2001 – clear and crimson with a youthful berry nose showing understated oak influence. The palate shows raspberry fruit and pleasant, assertive tannins leading to an edgy, firm finish. Appellation: St Emilion Grand Cru. Grapes: merlot 75%, cabernet franc 20%, malbec and cabernet sauvignon 5%.
Then it was onwards a tad further north to Chateau Beau-Site in Saint-Estephe. The 2004 barrel sample we tried had traces of new wood vanillan along with ripe fruit on the nose. On the palate the typical blackcurrant fruitiness of cabernet sauvignon asserted itself supported by well-integrated medium tannins. Appellation Saint-Estephe Cru Bourgeois. Grapes: cabernet sauvignon 70%, merlot 30%.
In Napa we stayed at the Hawthorn Suites, a short drive from the town centre and the best hotel of our entire holiday. It features modern double suites with self catering facilities, all year pool, cable TV, free local phone, free newspapers, and the tariff included a generous cooked buffet breakfast. Highly recommended.
You will not have to worry about drink driving though as, depending on the winery, some of the ‘flighted’ wines barely colour the bottom of the glass and are in danger of evaporating before they reach the tastebuds. Vignerons think nothing of charging $60 for a bottle of their pinots and cabernets. We abstained at those prices. Local hotels do have free winery tasting vouchers at reception for the asking, these can help defray tasting costs a little.
Beringer, of Beringer Blass fame - purchased by Fosters in 2000 - is ‘the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley’. Perched on a hillside in Main Street, St Helena, Beringer consists of a sprawling complex set in wooded gardens that could feature as a small city’s botanical garden. Among the lawns and trees are tasting rooms, tourist shops, the original, beautifully restored homestead and the old cellars, tunnelled cavewise into the slopes.
Note – If you visit Beringer take the time to drive just up the road to Calistoga and see the Old Faithful Geyser pop its cork very 40 minutes or so. Fascinating.
Like the fizz made by their Australian cousins (Chandon in Victoria's Yarra Valley), the sparklers of Chandon in the Napa depend more on fruit finesse than on the fine brioche-like nuances found in true champagne. They are none the worse for that. I liked the ’97 vintage brut for its full developed fruit and finish of hazel nuts. And the ‘etoile Brut sur lees 1999’ was a stunner. Dry, clean and elegant, it had a velvety mousse, a peachy sweetness and fine lemon-like acidity to finish. Address: 1 California Drive, Yountville.
Across the veldt of my chest
Our hotel in San Francisco’s Chinatown had obviously just hosted a convention of entomologists. I assumed this on observing colonies of crawlies migrating across the veldt of my chest. On closer inspection these beasties proved to be blood-suckers, entréeing on vintage O Pos - mine. A word to the management secured us a hopefully insect-free room on another floor. Yet I slept uneasily and woke up humming a few bars of ‘I left my blood in San Francisco.’
Still, I was warmed by the family oriented values displayed by locals. In the streets and on public transport one could not help but overhear the younger folk talk fondly about their parents. To my admittedly impaired hearing it seemed like every sentence was peppered with references to their moms and pops. Of course the local dialect accent rendered these familial references as something like ‘mutha-futta’ but I was touched nonetheless.
If Melbournians can picture a cross between Sydney Road Brunswick, Brunswick Street Fitzroy and High Street Westgarth and add a splash of colour they will almost be there.
Hyatt hiatus
What do you do in a foreign country between hotel check-out – usually 11am, and airport check-in – usually 11pm? For a while you cruise around the shops spending unused foreign currency, then you walk into the nearest swanky hotel (not the one you stayed in obviously) as if you own it and find a bar with a view. In San Francisco this was the local Hyatt. On the 36th floor is a deluxe lounge with a view of the city and San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. You can pass a couple of luxurious hours there over coffee, a few beers and nibbles - none of it too expensive. Then it's onwards to catch the airport shuttle at your leisure. The cramped flight home is inevitable and the less said about it the better.
Note: all prices in Australian dollars.
© Martin Field