he typical dictionary definition of classic is a work of excellence, and the reputation for excellence in wine is, as a rule, based upon a track record of consistent high quality, long-term consumer loyalty and cellar longevity.he typical dictionary definition of classic is a work of excellence, and the reputation for excellence in wine is, as a rule, based upon a track record of consistent high quality, long-term consumer loyalty and cellar longevity.
European winemakers have had centuries of viticultural research in which to develop classic wines, whereas Australia's wine origins date back only two hundred years or so. Nevertheless, over these two centuries Australian winemakers and consumers have come to recognise "terroir", the foundation upon which classic wines are built. Basically, terroir is the concept that particular regions and climates are better suited to certain grape varieties than others.
In Europe, this geographical and varietal relationship has been codified into systems of appellation, which, in effect, guarantee the origin of regional wines. In contrast, Australia's winemaking history has been dominated by what I call the "open slather" system, an arrangement whereby winemakers planted whatever grapes they selected wherever they wanted to.
Legislation in recent times has seen the introduction of the Geographical Indications Committee (GIC), which is in the process of defining the geographical boundaries of our wine regions. But the closest we have to Europe's various appellations is nation-wide truth-in-labelling legislation and the classification of Australian wines created by Langton's Auctions, based largely upon auction prices. (See www.langtons.com.au).
What are the Australian classics? First, we'll look at semillon, the best examples sourced from the Hunter Valley, about 170 km north of Sydney. These tend to be dry and unwooded wines, low in alcohol (around 11 per cent) and acidic in their youth, showing aspects of hay and citrus, with the potential to age into soft honeyed styles. Try the McWilliams Elizabeth.
Next white classic is riesling, premium styles coming from both the Clare and Eden Valleys of South Australia. These wines are dry and aromatic, exhibiting lime/lemon flavours and crisp acidity when young. They age very gracefully, with older rieslings developing characters such as toastiness and faint hints of something like kerosene (not unpleasant). Try the Petaluma Clare Riesling.
For classic cabernet sauvignon, you cannot go past Coonawarra, some 370 km south-east of Adelaide. Top Coonawarra cabernets are grown on the so-called terra rossa, a narrow strip of red loam about 15 km long. These wines are quite purple when young, flavours are intense and concentrated, often showing blackcurrant and minty character. Try Wynns Black Label or Penfolds Bin 707.
Final mention goes to that great red workhorse of the wine industry, shiraz, first planted here in the early 19th century. Before the widespread introduction of cabernet sauvignon in the 1960s shiraz was the only grape available to make red wine of any quality. Consequently it is grown and prospers in most wine regions.
My shiraz favourites come from the Barossa Valley, the Clare Valley and Great Western. The wines tend to show warm and spicy character, with notable black pepper, blackberries and, infrequently, eucalypt. Try Peter Lehmann, Leasingham Classic Clare and Mount Langi Ghiran.
From my point of view other well-known varieties such as pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc do not have a long enough history in Australia to qualify as classics.
Tastings
Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2000
Clare Valley, South Australia. Clear light gold hue. Generous and ripe floral nose. Dryish, grapey and youthful, with mouth-filling flavours of apple and citrus fruits. Clean and tangy lime-like finish. Rating:
. Cellar: to 2009. Price: about $AUD11.
Punters Corner Cabernet Merlot 1998.
Coonawarra, South Australia. Near opaque crimson. Lifted bouquet of berries and sweet oak. Drier style with assertive tannic astringency. Wood character from American and Russian oak is a touch forward but will integrate in a couple of years. Rating: 1/2. Cellar: to 2006. Price: about $AUD23