opping up all over Melbourne are wine shops dedicated solely to the sale of unbranded wines.

These wines used to be known as cleanskins in the trade, as the bottles were unlabelled and usually cheaper than their branded siblings. (Australian wine law now demands that all bottles have some sort of label with basic information, such as the seller or producer name and address, alcohol content etc.)

These new outlets disdain the use of the term cleanskin as it carries with it the downmarket implications of el cheapo no frills plonk. They prefer terms such as premium unlabelled and so forth. Companies that make cleanskins still insist on remaining anonymous, no doubt because they dont wish to be associated with no-name vino.

Where do cleanskins come from? I suspect that in the old days wine companies used the cleanskin market to offload unmovable stock, branded wines that went slightly wrong in the making, redundant labels that were no longer deemed marketable, vat ends and occasionally dregs unfit for wine casks.

Nowadays, in addition to the above, I imagine that the explosion in cleanskin sales is simply a way of selling off excess wine resulting from the current wine glut. And, no doubt, the liquidation of stock from companies that have gone or are about to go bankrupt.

Based on my recent tastings, the quality of cleanskins has improved greatly but prices have also increased proportionately. While there are plenty of cleanskins for under ten dollars, many sell for $15 plus and there are not a few in the twenties.

What I dont understand is why someone would pay that amount of money for wines from an unknown source when across the same price range there are ever-increasing numbers of discounted, proven quality, labelled wines available. I guess it must be the search for a bargain - the hope that a cleanskin which sells for $18 is really the equivalent of a branded $28 wine. PS If you want to know which company made a particular cleanskin, look at the cork some will be branded. Also, try asking the floor staff, the boss might be sworn to secrecy but the sales staff probably wont give a damn.

In the Heat of the Cellar

Over the last few weeks weve been roasting here in Melbourne in unusually high summer temperatures: often in the mid-30s and once as high as 44.1C. The unpleasantness further complicated by a constant haze of smoke from innumerable bushfires (not bloody wildfires!) raging all over the place. I know what youre thinking, Hardly wine drinking weather is it? Well, I insist on drinking wine daily, in any climate, and a few recordbreaking hot days arent going to stop me. White wines not a problem I just drink it a touch chillier than usual, straight from the fridge and placed in an ice bucket to keep it cool.

Theres something about red wine on a hot day though. If you drink it at ambient temperature it seems to boil your brains and you are prone to fall over frequently at inappropriate moments and wake up with a super nova type headache. The answer is to ration the red intake somewhat and, (dont tell the red wine police), cool the wine before drinking. Yep, put the bottle of red in the fridge for 20 or 30 minutes before opening or use an ice bucket. If the wine is not too grand you can even bung an ice cube or two in each glass. If the wine becomes too cold (unlikely when its 35 degrees outside) cup the glass in your sweaty hands to warm it up a tad.

Wein Meisters

Most of us have heard of that elite group, the Masters of Wine its members are entitled to put MW after their names. But I have only just come across the following expressions, Australasian Wine Master (AWM), American Wine Master (AWM) and International Wine Master (IWM).

According to the site, Centre for International Wine Studies one can become a University recognised Certified Wine Advisor at any of the five levels leading to the qualifications of Australasian Wine Master (AWM), or American Wine Master (AWM) and, ultimately, an International Wine Master (IWM). For aspiring IWMs the CIWS FAQS page gives the cost of an IWM study package at $10,000, plus any accommodation costs.

Cambodian Tastings

Our correspondent, Astrid of Alphington, reports from Cambodia. Taken from a wine list at a popular hotel in Siem Reap (in northern Cambodia where Angkor Wat and the other temples are):

Chateau Carney 1995: Wrap with dominant garnet with some reflections tiles. Melted tannins, savoury liquorice. One closed finally.

Quancard Tradition: A big vintage of wines of tables. A very cordial and thin nose where the scents of pine grove coat the thin fruit. In the mouth this wine proves to be delicate and subtle with a beautiful aromatic final.

Cellier de Bordes 98: A selection amongst the best fermented rosy Bordeaux wine. The dress splendid is elegantly avoided of a pink colour.

Chateau Jalousie Beaulieu 96: Beautiful wine of beautiful making, a beautiful glare to the tone garnets. Well developed bouquet with notes of brown and underwood.

Tastings

Silver Billet Merlot 2001 1 litre Tetrapak Cellar: Best before 12 September 2003. Around $7. 15.5/20 Murray Valley region. Mid-red with a slight russet edge. Sweetish fruit, soft, jammy style. Ideal for BBQs or picnics. Good value commercial style.

McWilliams Hanwood Estate Chardonnay 2002. Cellar to 2005. Around $9. 16.5/20. Mainly Riverina fruit blended with a smidgin of Yarra Valley, Coonawarra and Hilltops. Pale gold. Fresh ripe nose of dried pears. Straightforward palate shows apricots and a trace of sweet oak. Well-made, easy drinking, nicely-priced white.

Summit Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2002. Cellar to 2006. Around $24. 17.2/20 Granite Belt, Queensland. Very pale, hint of green. Inviting spicy nose of white peaches and vanillin oak. Palate rich and generous with an abundance of fruit, alcohol warmth (14.2%) and firm oak underpinning. Definitely a main course white.

Montalto Pinot Noir 2001. Cellar to 2006. Around $35. 17.5/20. Mornington Peninsula. Light ruby, edge of violet. Cherries and berries nose with quite definite oakiness. Mid-weighted wine showing sweet raspberries, soft tannins, wood and a firm, crisp acid finish.

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Cellar to 2008. Around $16. 18/20. Coonawarra, Robe and McLaren Vale. Crimson, hint of purple. Nose of blackcurrants and obvious oak. Clean intense palate with chewy tannins, forward acid and a dry solid finish. May be a touch young to drink yet.

Ratings are based on the Australian show judging system. Points are awarded (generously I hope) out of a possible 20. Maximum 3 points for appearance, 7 for bouquet and 10 for palate and finish. A wine that scores between 15.5 and 16.9 is a bronze medal winner. 17 to 18.4 gets a silver medal. Gold goes to those wines rating between 18.5 and 20 points. A rare trophy rating goes to an exceptionally good gold medal winner.

Quote: "The journey of a thousand alcoholics starts with a single drink. Ancient Chinese saying." Translated by MF.

© Martin Field